Surf Stories

Ted Grambeau
Voices for the Ocean
Voices for the Ocean
Voices for the Ocean

We protect what we love.

5:31
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On Letting Go
On Letting Go
On Letting Go

Ramón Navarro and Kohl Christensen bring Léa Brassy into the jaws of a Chilean monster.

Morgan Williamson
4 min de lecture
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater

How a nonprofit that takes San Francisco kids surfing expanded its work in 2020.

Morgan Williamson
6 min de lecture
Connected by Water
Connected by Water
Connected by Water

La mort de Sion Milosky à Mavericks en 2011 a laissé la communauté du surf de grosses vagues endeuillée, pleurant une fois de plus un surfeur talentueux. C'était aussi un signal d'alarme.

7:53
Découvrir
The Return of a Surf Classic
The Return of a Surf Classic
The Return of a Surf Classic

Coauthor Kim McCoy recounts discovering the mystery of what lies beneath the waves, where ocean and land meet and compete.

Kim McCoy & Willard Newell Bascom
5 min de lecture
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam

A look into surfing’s impact vests and the people they’ve brought back home.

Gabriela Aoun
8 min de lecture
The Eddie Must Go (On)
The Eddie Must Go (On)
The Eddie Must Go (On)

Clyde Aikau on why the most culturally significant big-wave event in surfing will always matter.

Morgan Williamson
7 min de lecture
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management

Kohl Christensen discusses how BWRAG came to be and his recent near-death experience courtesy of Pipeline's reef.

Morgan Williamson
7 min de lecture
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing

Dave Rastovich and Greg Long log in and discuss the current state of surfing, it’s cultural and ecological impacts, and where it’s headed.

Morgan Williamson
19 min de lecture
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing

Dave Rastovich and Greg Long log in and discuss the current state of surfing, it’s cultural and ecological impacts, and where it’s headed.

Morgan Williamson
19 min de lecture
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End

Meet Annie Reickert, the 18-year-old Maui charger Paige Alms is mentoring in the Jaws lineup and beyond.

Matt Skenazy
4 min de lecture
Net Positive
Net Positive
Net Positive

How discarded plastic fishing nets found their way into our hat brims.

Adam Skolnick
3 min de lecture
How to Interview Your Dad
How to Interview Your Dad
How to Interview Your Dad

And why you should do it now.

Kyle Thiermann
7 min de lecture
The Unridden
The Unridden
The Unridden

If you don’t get what you came for, be sure to enjoy the ride.

Kosuke Fujikura
4 min de lecture
Lessons from Jeju
Lessons from Jeju
Lessons from Jeju

Join Kimi Werner on her journey in Lessons from Jeju, where she learns about motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s mothers of sea, the haenyeo. “The world doesn’t seem to embrace how badass motherhood is,” says Kimi.

13:31
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Honorary Haenyeo
Honorary Haenyeo
Honorary Haenyeo

Kimi Werner takes a journey to Jeju Island for lessons in motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s “women of the sea” aka the haenyeo.

Archana Ram
8 min de lecture
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea

Captain Liz Clark’s been self-isolating aboard her sailboat Swell since 2005; here she provides her experiences and insight for navigating isolation during a pandemic.

Liz Clark
5 min de lecture
Finding My Voice
Finding My Voice
Finding My Voice

How Belinda Baggs went from an ‘armchair’ activist to the front lines.

Janna Irons
3 min de lecture
Not Your Average Surf Comp
Not Your Average Surf Comp
Not Your Average Surf Comp

Welcome to Ian Walsh’s Menehune Mayhem.

Gabriela Aoun
3 min de lecture
The Process and the Reward
The Process and the Reward
The Process and the Reward

Greg Long, Al Mackinnon and Pete Geall’s dusty search for uncrowded perfection at Location Redacted.

Pete Geall
6 min de lecture
Fire Up the Test Tank
Fire Up the Test Tank
Fire Up the Test Tank

There’s nothing more important than having waves a few minutes away.

Malcolm Johnson
3 min de lecture
The Fight For The Bight
The Fight For The Bight
The Fight For The Bight

While Australia burns, its government is greenlighting oil drilling in the unspoiled Great Australian Bight. But surfers and coastal communities are saying no—and uniting to keep Big Oil out.

Sean Doherty
10 min de lecture
Estado Salmonero
Estado Salmonero
Estado Salmonero

In a nation known for its massive resource extraction, salmon farming is now bigger than all of Chile’s industries except copper mining.

23:16
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A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard

At Fletcher Chouinard Designs, the focus is on durable, high-performing equipment that lets you have fun no matter what the ocean is doing. There are never enough hours in a day for Fletcher Chouinard. As a surfer, shaper, kiteboarder and new father, he was really doing the dance. Then along came foilboarding, which has made…

Sean Doherty
5 min de lecture
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters

The Best Times Are About Friends, Not Perfection It had been four years since Liz Clark, Léa Brassy and I first spent time together, on a sailing trip through the Tuamotus. We knew we’d found something special from the moment we met, and we’ve stayed in touch ever since. We’re all very individual women and…

Kimi Werner
4 min de lecture
Stop New Offshore Drilling
Stop New Offshore Drilling
Stop New Offshore Drilling

The Trump administration wants to open almost all of America’s coastline to the oil industry, putting our beaches and oceans at serious risk. Fifty years ago, an offshore rig spilled 100,000 barrels of crude oil into California’s Santa Barbara Channel, creating a 35-mile slick that fouled the wave-rich shoreline from Goleta to Ventura. It should…

Patagonia
3 min de lecture
An Englishman Surfs in Euskadi
An Englishman Surfs in Euskadi
An Englishman Surfs in Euskadi

It was November 1991. I was with two friends and we were at the beginning of a three-month surf trip around the coasts of Spain and Portugal. Mundaka was our starting point. We all agreed that we would be happy just to get something better than the cold, windblown beach breaks we had left behind…

Tony Butt
12 min de lecture
Tales From The Third Ledge
Tales From The Third Ledge
Tales From The Third Ledge

Six years ago, when that famous wave broke on the Third Ledge at Cloudbreak—tearing down reef, tearing through time, majestically unridden, surfers scrambling for their lives—there was one question left hanging in the air like sea mist. As the last wave washed through the lagoon and slunk back into the ocean, the water still hissing,…

Sean Doherty
8 min de lecture
“The Reef Beneath:” A Film About Exploring the Great Barrier Reef
“The Reef Beneath:” A Film About Exploring the Great Barrier Reef
“The Reef Beneath:” A Film About Exploring the Great Barrier Reef

You know, it’s strange, you grow up as a kid in Australia and you see all these photos of the Great Barrier Reef and you hear all about it, and you feel you have some understanding or knowledge about the reef, but until you actually go up there and see it firsthand you can’t ever…

Wayne Lynch
7 min de lecture
Paddling with a Purpose: A Day with the Epilepsy Foundation of Greater LA
Paddling with a Purpose: A Day with the Epilepsy Foundation of Greater LA
Paddling with a Purpose: A Day with the Epilepsy Foundation of Greater LA

Last year I decided to truly dig in to my effort to raise awareness about epilepsy, a disease that affects 1 out of every 26 people in the United States, by using my social media and long-distance paddling skills. I worked hard to prepare for a 17-mile paddle, reached out to the Epilepsy Foundation of…

Jared Muscat
6 min de lecture
The Paradox of Schrödinger’s Peak
La Caldera: big, windy and empty. Photo: Miguel Arribazalaga, 2013
The Paradox of Schrödinger’s Peak

It was about an hour before dark. The spot had been a lot easier to find than I thought—five minutes from the main road and within easy viewing distance from a cliff. A few weeks earlier a friend had told me he had seen “something breaking” along this stretch of coast. This must be it,…

Tony Butt
9 min de lecture
Excerpt from “Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening” by Liz Clark
Caught by the heavy winds of a fast-moving South Pacific squall, Liz Clark heads to the mast to put another reef in Swell’s sail. Photo: Tahui Tufaimea
Excerpt from “Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening” by Liz Clark

After an hour’s sleep, I wake to the sound of fat raindrops pelting the deck. The noise quickly escalates into a deafening torrent, and I push up off the settee and climb up the steps. Glancing at the radar screen on my way up, I see a massive squall blacking out the entire 8-mile radius…

Liz Clark
4 min de lecture
A 35-Year Voyage Back in Time: Nick Beck’s Holopuni Expedition
Grandson Braden steered the longest crossing of the 2017 trip, from O‘ahu to Kaua‘i. Photo: ©Holopuni Va‘a, by Wim Lippens
A 35-Year Voyage Back in Time: Nick Beck’s Holopuni Expedition

In May 1981, I set out in a home-built Hawaiian sailing canoe from South Point on the island of Hawai‘i to my home on Kaua‘i. It was an adventure that would take me from the southern-most to the northern-most point of the Hawaiian Islands. I named my canoe Holopuni, “to sail everywhere,” and I’ve been…

Nick Beck
10 min de lecture
Cleaning Up a Boat Wreck in Isla de Todos Santos
Kyle Thiermann and Greg Long load up pieces of boat wreckage at Isla De Todos Santos. Baja California, Mexico. Photo: Nikki Brooks
Cleaning Up a Boat Wreck in Isla de Todos Santos

Besides a lighthouse, a dirt trail and a few small structures, Isla De Todos Santos is almost completely undeveloped. The only permanent resident is the lighthouse keeper, who greeted us in Spanish as we approached after stepping ashore on a bright October morning. Those who choose to live in solitude fascinate me and I wanted…

Kyle Thiermann
5 min de lecture
How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria
From small to a large scale, we learn along the way. Otto Flores builds a cistern that can supply a large number of people in the community. Yabucoa, Puerto Rico. Photo: Ethan Lovell
How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria

It’s been a crazy couple of weeks—a whirlwind of events, to say the least. Seems like the world got turned over in less than a month. Natural disasters are igniting on all sides of the globe. Could it be that the planet is trying to tell us something? Is humanity in harm’s way? Nature tends…

Otto Flores
7 min de lecture
SUP the Danube
Photo: Adam Colton
SUP the Danube

If you were to ask me what I did on the Danube River during my 21-day solo paddle from Ingolstadt, Germany to Belgrade, Serbia, my answer is simple. I fought crime, outran bad guys in speedboats with machine guns, almost died a few times from river monsters and 20-foot waves … oh yeah, it was…

Adam Colton
5 min de lecture
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