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Surf Stories

Ted Grambeau
The Point is Forever: Protecting the Legendary Punta de Lobos
Photo: Jason Murray
The Point is Forever: Protecting the Legendary Punta de Lobos
Patagonia

Punta de Lobos is awarded World Surfing Reserve status—an all too rare conservation success story.

5 min Read
How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria
From small to a large scale, we learn along the way. Otto Flores builds a cistern that can supply a large number of people in the community. Yabucoa, Puerto Rico. Photo: Ethan Lovell
How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria
Otto Flores

It’s been a crazy couple of weeks—a whirlwind of events, to say the least. Seems like the world got turned over in less than a month. Natural disasters are igniting on all sides of the globe. Could it be that the planet is trying to tell us something? Is humanity in harm’s way? Nature tends…

7 min Read
SUP the Danube
Photo: Adam Colton
SUP the Danube
Adam Colton

If you were to ask me what I did on the Danube River during my 21-day solo paddle from Ingolstadt, Germany to Belgrade, Serbia, my answer is simple. I fought crime, outran bad guys in speedboats with machine guns, almost died a few times from river monsters and 20-foot waves … oh yeah, it was…

5 min Read
Stop the Black Dragon
Photo: María Mariñas
Stop the Black Dragon
Tony Butt

About five minutes from where I live, there is a small village called Tapia de Casariego. The waves at Tapia are not world-class, but they can get very good on the right conditions. Tapia is also very significant in Spanish surfing history, being one of the birthplaces of surfing in this country. Most of the…

12 min Read
The Slab Hunter: Ben Wilkinson Woodwork
Photo: Travis Rummel
The Slab Hunter: Ben Wilkinson Woodwork
Malcolm Johnson

It didn’t take long for Ben Wilkinson to figure out that there was freedom to be had in working for himself—and that freedom was the first requirement if he wanted to go surfing whenever the waves got huge. “I left home when I was 16,” he remembers, “which was old enough in my eyes. But…

4 min Read
El arrecife ahí abajo
El arrecife ahí abajo
El arrecife ahí abajo
Wayne Lynch

¿Sabes? Es raro que cuando niño uno crece en Australia y ve todas esas fotos de la Gran Barrera de Coral, escucha de todo sobre ella y cree que entiende algo o tiene conocimiento sobre ese arrecife. Pero hasta que no vas de verdad y lo vez tú mismo, no puedes preciar realmente cuán enorme…

7 min Read
Pohnpei: A Different Perspective of a Familiar Place
Photo: Scott Soens
Pohnpei: A Different Perspective of a Familiar Place
Reo Stevens

Robby Naish once spoke about the irony of traveling the world to compete. He spent 30 years filling passport after passport, but never really saw anything other than the beach. It’s an easy trap to fall into. With today’s high-paced society and accurate weather forecasts, traveling surfers and kite surfers often focus too much on…

7 min Read
The Malloy Brothers’ Humble Ascent in Surfing
Photo: Jeff Johnson
The Malloy Brothers’ Humble Ascent in Surfing
Jeff Johnson

It’s 2002. Dan Malloy, the youngest of the Malloy brothers, is surfing in a contest at Sunset Beach on Oʻahu. He is 25 years old and upholding a foundation built by his two older brothers, which has made him the most hopeful of the Malloy clan to excel in the competitive surfing world. But it’s…

8 min Read
Backyard Adventures: A Mid-Atlantic Surf Hunt in DelMarVa
Backyard Adventures: A Mid-Atlantic Surf Hunt in DelMarVa
Backyard Adventures: A Mid-Atlantic Surf Hunt in DelMarVa

From the frosty summits of Rocky Mountain National Park, to the sultry sea of the eastern shore, our Backyard Adventurers are taking us on a grand tour of some of some true surprises. Grab a brew, pull up a chair, and enjoy as Mark Carter takes us along on his hunt for secret mid-Atlantic surf:…

8 min Read
Sliding Liberia Being Shown & Introduced by the Directors Tomorrow at Patagonia Palo Alto
Sliding Liberia Being Shown & Introduced by the Directors Tomorrow at Patagonia Palo Alto
Sliding Liberia Being Shown & Introduced by the Directors Tomorrow at Patagonia Palo Alto

The Patagoonies in Palo Alto are getting revved up for an extra-special event this weekend. We are proud to announce that directors, Stanford University students, and friends of Patagonia, Nicholai Lidow and Britt Caillouette, will be introducing the surf documentary Sliding Liberia at 7 pm on Saturday, June 7, in our shop on Alma Street.…

2 min Read
Wood is Good (Pt. 4) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 4) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 4) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards

YouTube version: Wood is Good Pt. 4 Here it is, the final installment of Tom Wegener’s "Wood is Good" talk at Patagonia Cardiff and what a treat this series has been (see parts 1, 2 & 3). The footage of Dave Rastovich in today’s chapter is mind blowing. Though far from mainstream, Alaias are here…

1 min Read
Wood is Good (Pt. 3) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 3) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 3) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards

YouTube version: Wood is Good Pt. 3 Previously: Part 1 and Part 2. We’ll conclude the series tomorrow. Visit Patagonia Cardiff or Tom Wegener Surfboards to see the boards. With thanks to Devon Howard. 

1 min Read
Wood is Good (Pt. 2) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 2) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 2) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards

YouTube version: Wood is Good Pt. 2 See Part One of the series for an introduction to Tom by Devon Howard and to watch the first chapter of the video. Visit Patagonia Cardiff or Tom Wegener Surfboards to see the boards.

1 min Read
Wood is Good (Pt. 1) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards Video Series
Wood is Good (Pt. 1) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards Video Series
Wood is Good (Pt. 1) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards Video Series

Devon Howard, manager of Patagonia’s Cardiff Surf Shop, has put together another stellar event for his customers – and recorded it for all of us who couldn’t be there in person. Tune in each day, from now until Monday, as we bring you Tom Wegener’s talk at Patagonia Cardiff. The first video of the four-part…

3 min Read
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Matt Skenazy

Meet Annie Reickert, the 18-year-old Maui charger Paige Alms is mentoring in the Jaws lineup and beyond.

4 min Read
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Gabriela Aoun

Seasoned waterman, master woodworker and Patagonia Surf Ambassador Ben Wilkinson channels his skills toward a new environmental calling.

5 min Read
Gerry Lopez on the SEA Paddle Around Manhattan
Gerry Lopez on the SEA Paddle Around Manhattan
Gerry Lopez on the SEA Paddle Around Manhattan
Gerry Lopez

By Gerry Lopez Inspired by his good friend Don King – who is making a documentary about his son who has autism – Patagonia ambassador Gerry Lopez recently participated in the Surfers’ Environmental Alliance (SEA) Paddle NYC White Water fundraiser to raise money and awareness for autism. The event consisted of the first-ever 28-mile surf…

11 min Read
Trestle Toll Road vs. World-Class Surf Breaks in Cardiff
Trestle Toll Road vs. World-Class Surf Breaks in Cardiff
Trestle Toll Road vs. World-Class Surf Breaks in Cardiff

On September 22, thousands of citizens attended yet another hearing on the proposed "Trestles" toll road. The hearing was held by the U.S. Secretary of Commerce, who promised to make his decision between October 24, 2008 and January 7, 2009. As we begin the official waiting period for the verdict, let’s get a recap of…

4 min Read
Lakey Peterson Reports From Australia
Lakey Peterson Reports From Australia
Lakey Peterson Reports From Australia

It’s never too soon to learn the tradition of story telling. Today we bring you the words of Santa Barbara super-grom, and FCD Surfboards team rider, 13-year-old Lakey Peterson.  Right now I’m traveling through Australia, surfing with my mom and dad. We started in Noosa, where there was a worldwide surf festival going on. It…

3 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 6
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 6
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 6
Gerry Lopez

The Talkin’ Pipe video series concludes with Gerry and Jock riffing on Kelly Slater and Backdoor. If you’re new to the series, visit the Talkin’ Pipe page at Patagonia.com to watch parts 1 – 5. And while you’re there, consider picking up a copy of Gerry’s new book Surf Is Where You Find It. Sadly,…

2 min Read
Anxiety and Ecstasy in the Age of Online Surf Forecasting
Anxiety and Ecstasy in the Age of Online Surf Forecasting
Anxiety and Ecstasy in the Age of Online Surf Forecasting
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Yesterday I scored big. It was one of those rare days which left me so pumped up when it was over I knew I was going to have trouble falling asleep last night. [Editor's note: This story was originally written in November 2007] I figured I better write it down before the…

15 min Read
Surfing with Buddy
Surfing with Buddy
Surfing with Buddy
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Except for his rather large collection of blues records, there were not, in a material sense, a lot of other things Buddy Dumphy considered important or worthy of much thought. Even his surfboards were considered transient – tools to be used and sometimes abused – only stepping-stones to the next board. We…

12 min Read
What It’s Like Inside the Tube
What It’s Like Inside the Tube
What It’s Like Inside the Tube
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez I have been asked many times what it’s like being inside a tube. My short answer is simple, “it’s great.” The long answer is quite a bit more involved. To get inside a tube long enough to have time to think about what it’s like requires a long list of factors. Luck…

4 min Read
Filming “North Shore” with Randall Kleiser
Filming “North Shore” with Randall Kleiser
Filming “North Shore” with Randall Kleiser
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez The telephone rang on a lazy day, there wasn’t any surf so I was just relaxing on the couch doing nothing. “Gerry, this is Randall Kleiser calling, I met you once with John Milius, and he suggested I call you. I’m making a movie about surfing, and I’d like you to be…

9 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 5
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 5
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 5
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Jock Sutherland was my first and foremost hero at the Pipeline. It somehow seemed destined that my first time out on a small empty day as a sophomore in high school, Jock would paddle out and give me a key tip on how to surf the difficult place. It would be the…

2 min Read
The Demise of the Ditch: Remembering a Top-Secret Surf Spot
The Demise of the Ditch: Remembering a Top-Secret Surf Spot
The Demise of the Ditch: Remembering a Top-Secret Surf Spot
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Since it’s gone, I guess there’s no reason to keep the secret any longer. What we had was a pretty neat surf spot almost 200 miles from the ocean. For the last three years, it’s been double top secret. Even so, like everything else in the surfing world, the word got out.…

12 min Read
Rob Machado Is the Coolest Surfer of Modern Times
Rob Machado Is the Coolest Surfer of Modern Times
Rob Machado Is the Coolest Surfer of Modern Times
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Surf heroes become recognized for accomplishments that set them apart. Kelly Slater and Andy Irons battled fiercely for world championship titles among a field of surfers of extraordinary ability. Laird Hamilton rode bigger and more dangerous waves than anyone had before, which paved the way for others to make their own big…

6 min Read
Beach of the King: A Personal History of Playa Del Rey
Beach of the King: A Personal History of Playa Del Rey
Beach of the King: A Personal History of Playa Del Rey
localcrew

DJ Dukesherer’s path to becoming an author was less direct than the one that led him to surfing. Paddling the deep blue waters off the coast of Playa Del Rey with his father were a defining element of his childhood. Mr. Dukesherer’s ocean roots sunk deep into the sands of Playa Del Rey. Through his…

5 min Read
Gerry Lopez Remembers Terror at Jaws
Gerry Lopez Remembers Terror at Jaws
Gerry Lopez Remembers Terror at Jaws
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez [Editor's note: In honor of his new book Surf Is Where You Find It, we're stoked to have Gerry Lopez sit in as guest editor. Stay tuned for seven days of stories from one of surfing's finest.] As I hurried towards the baggage claim at the airport in Kahului, Maui, I noticed…

22 min Read
Surf Imagery at the Cardiff Store
Surf Imagery at the Cardiff Store
Surf Imagery at the Cardiff Store

Surf stoke is such a positive feeling. It enriches our lives and makes us better people. Surf art has a way of rekindling the stoke when we’re not in the water — it transports us back to the ocean in our minds and hearts. The crew at Patagonia’s Cardiff surf shop have just such a…

2 min Read
LIVE: A Music and Surfing Experience
LIVE: A Music and Surfing Experience
LIVE: A Music and Surfing Experience

Patagonia ambassador Mary Osborne sends word about the premiere of Live: A Music and Surfing Experience, a new surf film by David Parsa. From Mary, "It’s a killer movie about surfing and music from the ’50s to the present." Surfing Magazine says of the film, "Live: A Music and Surfing Experience dances through each decade…

2 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 4
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 4
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 4
Gerry Lopez

The Talkin’ Pipe video series continues with Gerry and Jock reminiscing about the Expression Session of 1970. Definitely some classic stories in here. Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3 are available for those new to the series, and there’s more to come. Thanks again to Devon Howard and the crew at Patagonia’s Cardiff Surf…

1 min Read
Ari Lurie in the South Pacific: Sitting on the Shoulder
Ari Lurie in the South Pacific: Sitting on the Shoulder
Ari Lurie in the South Pacific: Sitting on the Shoulder

This story was sent to us by Ari Lurie from Tahiti. He is an avid outrigger paddler and surfer. ‘Haole go home.’  This glaring message was scrawled across a building in the center of town.  I was visiting the port of Fare on the beautiful French Polynesian island of Huahine.  I smiled at its bluntness…

2 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 3
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 3
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 3
Gerry Lopez

The Talkin’ Pipe series continues with Gerry & Jock reminiscing about the ’70s. They discuss a few of the breaks that prepared them for Pipeline, the board designs from that era and some of the masters who rode them so well. If you’re new to the series, take a gander at Part 1 and Part…

1 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 2
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 2
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 2

Be sure and check out Part 1 if you missed it and keep an eye on the men’s and women’s surf pages at Patagonia.com,or here at The Cleanest Line, for Part 3 coming soon. Also, stay tuned for details on Gerry’s newbook Surf is Where You Find It. If you like surfing and an intimate…

1 min Read
Surf Their Waves—Even When They Tell You Not To
Surf Their Waves—Even When They Tell You Not To
Surf Their Waves—Even When They Tell You Not To
William Kaner

They say it’s bad to surf after a rain. I disagree. I have empirical evidence that shows they are wrong. I don’t get sick. Never have. And I used to live in Venice Beach. They never reported the water quality at my local break better than a D+. I saw it as a challenge. It…

4 min Read
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