Surf Stories

Ted Grambeau
The Point is Forever

Punta de Lobos is awarded World Surfing Reserve status—an all too rare conservation success story.

Patagonia
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Into the Deep End

Meet Annie Reickert, the 18-year-old Maui charger Paige Alms is mentoring in the Jaws lineup and beyond.

Matt Skenazy
4 Minuten Lesezeit
Net Positive

How discarded plastic fishing nets found their way into our hat brims.

Adam Skolnick
3 Minuten Lesezeit
How to Interview Your Dad

And why you should do it now.

Kyle Thiermann
7 Minuten Lesezeit
The Unridden

If you don’t get what you came for, be sure to enjoy the ride.

Kosuke Fujikura
4 Minuten Lesezeit
Lessons from Jeju

Join Kimi Werner on her journey in Lessons from Jeju, where she learns about motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s mothers of sea, the haenyeo. “The world doesn’t seem to embrace how badass motherhood is,” says Kimi.

13:31
Ansehen
Not Your Average Surf Comp

Welcome to Ian Walsh’s Menehune Mayhem.

Gabriela Aoun
3 Minuten Lesezeit
The Process and the Reward

Greg Long, Al Mackinnon and Pete Geall’s dusty search for uncrowded perfection at Location Redacted.

Pete Geall
6 Minuten Lesezeit
Fire Up the Test Tank

There’s nothing more important than having waves a few minutes away.

Malcolm Johnson
3 Minuten Lesezeit
The Fight For The Bight

While Australia burns, its government is greenlighting oil drilling in the unspoiled Great Australian Bight. But surfers and coastal communities are saying no—and uniting to keep Big Oil out.

Sean Doherty
10 Minuten Lesezeit
Estado Salmonero

In a nation known for its massive resource extraction, salmon farming is now bigger than all of Chile’s industries except copper mining.

23:16
Ansehen
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard

At Fletcher Chouinard Designs, the focus is on durable, high-performing equipment that lets you have fun no matter what the ocean is doing. There are never enough hours in a day for Fletcher Chouinard. As a surfer, shaper, kiteboarder and new father, he was really doing the dance. Then along came foilboarding, which has made…

Sean Doherty
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters

The Best Times Are About Friends, Not Perfection It had been four years since Liz Clark, Léa Brassy and I first spent time together, on a sailing trip through the Tuamotus. We knew we’d found something special from the moment we met, and we’ve stayed in touch ever since. We’re all very individual women and…

Kimi Werner
4 Minuten Lesezeit
Stop New Offshore Drilling

The Trump administration wants to open almost all of America’s coastline to the oil industry, putting our beaches and oceans at serious risk. Fifty years ago, an offshore rig spilled 100,000 barrels of crude oil into California’s Santa Barbara Channel, creating a 35-mile slick that fouled the wave-rich shoreline from Goleta to Ventura. It should…

Patagonia
3 Minuten Lesezeit
An Englishman Surfs in Euskadi

It was November 1991. I was with two friends and we were at the beginning of a three-month surf trip around the coasts of Spain and Portugal. Mundaka was our starting point. We all agreed that we would be happy just to get something better than the cold, windblown beach breaks we had left behind…

Tony Butt
12 Minuten Lesezeit
Tales From The Third Ledge

Six years ago, when that famous wave broke on the Third Ledge at Cloudbreak—tearing down reef, tearing through time, majestically unridden, surfers scrambling for their lives—there was one question left hanging in the air like sea mist. As the last wave washed through the lagoon and slunk back into the ocean, the water still hissing,…

Sean Doherty
8 Minuten Lesezeit
“The Reef Beneath:” A Film About Exploring the Great Barrier Reef

You know, it’s strange, you grow up as a kid in Australia and you see all these photos of the Great Barrier Reef and you hear all about it, and you feel you have some understanding or knowledge about the reef, but until you actually go up there and see it firsthand you can’t ever…

Wayne Lynch
7 Minuten Lesezeit
Paddling with a Purpose: A Day with the Epilepsy Foundation of Greater LA

Last year I decided to truly dig in to my effort to raise awareness about epilepsy, a disease that affects 1 out of every 26 people in the United States, by using my social media and long-distance paddling skills. I worked hard to prepare for a 17-mile paddle, reached out to the Epilepsy Foundation of…

Jared Muscat
6 Minuten Lesezeit
The Paradox of Schrödinger’s Peak

It was about an hour before dark. The spot had been a lot easier to find than I thought—five minutes from the main road and within easy viewing distance from a cliff. A few weeks earlier a friend had told me he had seen “something breaking” along this stretch of coast. This must be it,…

Tony Butt
9 Minuten Lesezeit
Excerpt from “Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening” by Liz Clark

After an hour’s sleep, I wake to the sound of fat raindrops pelting the deck. The noise quickly escalates into a deafening torrent, and I push up off the settee and climb up the steps. Glancing at the radar screen on my way up, I see a massive squall blacking out the entire 8-mile radius…

Liz Clark
4 Minuten Lesezeit
A 35-Year Voyage Back in Time: Nick Beck’s Holopuni Expedition

In May 1981, I set out in a home-built Hawaiian sailing canoe from South Point on the island of Hawai‘i to my home on Kaua‘i. It was an adventure that would take me from the southern-most to the northern-most point of the Hawaiian Islands. I named my canoe Holopuni, “to sail everywhere,” and I’ve been…

Nick Beck
10 Minuten Lesezeit
Cleaning Up a Boat Wreck in Isla de Todos Santos

Besides a lighthouse, a dirt trail and a few small structures, Isla De Todos Santos is almost completely undeveloped. The only permanent resident is the lighthouse keeper, who greeted us in Spanish as we approached after stepping ashore on a bright October morning. Those who choose to live in solitude fascinate me and I wanted…

Kyle Thiermann
5 Minuten Lesezeit
How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria

It’s been a crazy couple of weeks—a whirlwind of events, to say the least. Seems like the world got turned over in less than a month. Natural disasters are igniting on all sides of the globe. Could it be that the planet is trying to tell us something? Is humanity in harm’s way? Nature tends…

Otto Flores
7 Minuten Lesezeit
SUP the Danube

If you were to ask me what I did on the Danube River during my 21-day solo paddle from Ingolstadt, Germany to Belgrade, Serbia, my answer is simple. I fought crime, outran bad guys in speedboats with machine guns, almost died a few times from river monsters and 20-foot waves … oh yeah, it was…

Adam Colton
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Stop the Black Dragon

About five minutes from where I live, there is a small village called Tapia de Casariego. The waves at Tapia are not world-class, but they can get very good on the right conditions. Tapia is also very significant in Spanish surfing history, being one of the birthplaces of surfing in this country. Most of the…

Tony Butt
12 Minuten Lesezeit
Pohnpei: A Different Perspective of a Familiar Place

Robby Naish once spoke about the irony of traveling the world to compete. He spent 30 years filling passport after passport, but never really saw anything other than the beach. It’s an easy trap to fall into. With today’s high-paced society and accurate weather forecasts, traveling surfers and kite surfers often focus too much on…

Reo Stevens
7 Minuten Lesezeit
The Slab Hunter: Ben Wilkinson Woodwork

It didn’t take long for Ben Wilkinson to figure out that there was freedom to be had in working for himself—and that freedom was the first requirement if he wanted to go surfing whenever the waves got huge. “I left home when I was 16,” he remembers, “which was old enough in my eyes. But…

Malcolm Johnson
4 Minuten Lesezeit
Behind the Scenes of Keith Malloy’s “Fishpeople” Film

Filmmaking. Some people follow the storyboard, some follow their gut. Keith Malloy? Ten parts gut, zero parts plan. Well, I take that back. He’s got a plan, it’s just hard to discern it behind that beard. Fortunately, he’s got some friends (and a legendary wife) who know how to organize, use cameras, record sound, scuba dive…

Donnie Hedden
9 Minuten Lesezeit
Reviving a Once-Exploited Surf Spot in Madeira

“MISHEEEEEEEE!” boomed Cecilia, almost crushing Michi’s large frame with a huge hug as we both walked in the door. It was 2016 and the twenty-eighth time Michi (pronounced Mickey) Mohr had come to Madeira Island. Even though he was based in Munich, he knew the waves of Madeira as well as anyone, and could more…

Tony Butt
12 Minuten Lesezeit
Léa Brassy Takes on the Tahiti Nui Holopuni Va’a Channel Crossing Race

A crash course in crewing a sailing canoe.

Léa Brassy
6 Minuten Lesezeit
Crossing Ka’iwi in an Outrigger Canoe

Eight hours earlier, we were a canoe team without paddles. After a last-minute transport change, the Bad News Bears of outrigger racing had arrived at the start of the Moloka‘i Hoe having forgotten our most important equipment in another truck. It was a tense hour or so until our paddles finally arrived. But now, halfway…

Ben Wilkinson
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Cold Stoke at the 2017 Gerry Lopez Big Wave Challenge

Snowboarding began as a way of riding waves in their frozen form. There are still plenty of snow shredders who take their inspiration from surf style—and plenty of surfers who are just as stoked to get up into the mountains. Each year at Mt. Bachelor, the Gerry Lopez Big Wave Challenge celebrates the links between…

Patagonia
3 Minuten Lesezeit
Surfing and Making Sustainable Clothing on the Island of Serendip

Almost a decade ago, I’d heard stories of mystical right points peeling forever without another soul in sight. What surfer addicted to logging wouldn’t crave to check it out, even though it meant ignoring travel warnings and venturing into a region suffering from civil unrest? Young, naive and most probably foolish, I set off on…

Belinda Baggs
6 Minuten Lesezeit
Yoga with Gerry Lopez

For those of you who don’t know surfing, Gerry Lopez is an icon of the sport. Since the late sixties, Gerry has made surfers from around the world hoot with hyper fascination as he dazzled them with his tube riding prowess. His flowing, effortless grace in heavy-water situations is revered by surfers worldwide. Famous for…

Hank Gaskell
6 Minuten Lesezeit
The More Things Change: Gerry Lopez’s Uluwatu Talk Story

Gerry Lopez first surfed Uluwatu in 1974. The fabled Balinese wave was pristine, magical and empty (more on that below). Forty years later, he returned to host a yoga retreat, get a few waves between classes and help preserve Uluwatu for future generations. In this short film, Gerry uses Uluwatu and surfing as metaphors for change—and…

Gerry Lopez
9 Minuten Lesezeit
Doughmore: The Futility of Trying to Fix a Coastline

“The real conflict of the beach is not between sea and shore […] but between Man and Nature. On the beach, Nature has achieved a dynamic equilibrium that is alien to Man and his static sense of equilibrium. Once a line has been established, whether it be a shoreline or a property line, Man unreasonably…

Tony Butt
9 Minuten Lesezeit
Ramón Navarro: Above and Beyond

Every so often you come across someone whose actions and demeanor leave you both inspired and in a state of wonder. Such was the case when I first encountered Ramón Navarro. I was 19 years old at the time, spending an extended winter stint on the fabled North Shore of O‘ahu, Hawai‘i, hoping to further…

Greg Long
7 Minuten Lesezeit
Introducing a New Edition of Yvon Chouinard’s “Let My People Go Surfing”

Ten years after its original publication, Penguin Books has released a completely revised and expanded edition of Yvon Chouinard’s classic memoir, Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman, with more than 40 percent new material and featuring a new foreword by Naomi Klein, author of the bestselling book This Changes Everything. In the…

Yvon Chouinard
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Epileptic Opportunity: Paddling Towards a Cure

I have epilepsy. I don’t know if I was born with it. The better conclusion is I developed it from a series of concussions in high school. But truly, no doctor will say for certain. Such is the story of epilepsy. I was diagnosed on my way to my freshman year at the University of…

Jared Muscat
7 Minuten Lesezeit
The Malloy Brothers’ Humble Ascent in Surfing

It’s 2002. Dan Malloy, the youngest of the Malloy brothers, is surfing in a contest at Sunset Beach on Oʻahu. He is 25 years old and upholding a foundation built by his two older brothers, which has made him the most hopeful of the Malloy clan to excel in the competitive surfing world. But it’s…

Jeff Johnson
8 Minuten Lesezeit
Two Brothers Take a Trip to Cochamó

In early 2014, I spent some time exploring the coastline around southern Chile looking for waves and generally just checking out a place that I had always wanted to visit. I ended up heading as far south as Chiloe which is the first island on the coast of where Patagonia starts. It had been a…

Patrick “Patch” Wilson
7 Minuten Lesezeit
Just How Good Is the Surfing in Iceland?

“Just go in,” said the woman’s voice. “There’s nobody there at the moment but the house is always left open. Yours is room two, upstairs.” I was calling ahead to the small guesthouse where we had booked a room. Slightly bewildered, I looked across at my traveling buddy, Martín. “It’s cool man, aquí no roban,”…

Tony Butt
14 Minuten Lesezeit
Léa Brassy & Vincent Colliard’s Self-Supported Ski Journey in Northern Iceland

Winter in Iceland is ridiculously unpredictable. It can be beaten by wind and swell one minute and infused with silence and solitude the next. Drawn by the appeal of its wilderness, my partner and I dreamed of traveling there for a long time. Combining both of our passions for surfing and exploring, we decided to…

Léa Brassy & Vincent Colliard
10 Minuten Lesezeit
“Ten Tuamotus Days:” A Short Film

Liz Clark
1 Minuten Lesezeit
The Rescue Box: A Little Aid for Surfers in Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher

In its deep summer slumber, it is hard to gauge the latent fury this place can serve up to the unsuspecting. There are, however, clues to the power of this landscape that can both give and take in equal measure. The weathered faces of naked shale give evidence to deadly drops of tonnage. The natural…

Tom Doidge-Harrison
6 Minuten Lesezeit
The Chase: A Tiny Film

Honestly, we went to Iceland to catch big fish. It was that simple. We wanted to bask in the late Arctic sun while bringing dreamy meter-long Atlantic salmon to hand. We wanted to drink whiskey afterwards, go to bed and do it again every day we could. What surprised us wasn’t our ability to check…

RC Cone
4 Minuten Lesezeit
Mundaka: Surf But Don’t Touch

When the first surfers turned up at Mundaka around the late 1960s and set their eyes upon those perfect lefthanders, they had no reason to think the waves wouldn’t be there forever. Almost half a century later, we now know that Mundaka is a very special wave, perhaps unique in the world; not just because…

Tony Butt
13 Minuten Lesezeit
My Vision for Punta de Lobos

Standing up to save a special place before it’s gone.

Ramón Navarro
4 Minuten Lesezeit
The Fisherman’s Son

Born and raised at Punta de Lobos, Ramón Navarro found his passion riding the biggest waves on the planet.

28:57
Ansehen
Simply Southern Chile: A Surf Trip

After my second trip to Southern Chile this past July, I have absolutely fallen in love with its simple way of life. More and more nowadays, it seems there is so much going on that it’s impossible to get ahead. Chile doesn’t know or care about that. Life there is content to just continue rolling…

Hank Gaskell
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Never-Before-Seen Footage from George Greenough

There are only a few people that have truly played a pivotal role in the advancement of surfboard design, people whose contribution was so impactful that it changed surfing in massive ways forever. George Greenough would make any surf buff’s list as one of the greats, but for me I’m comfortable saying he’s flat-out the…

Devon Howard
4 Minuten Lesezeit
Percebeiros: The Hunter-Gatherers of Europe’s Rugged Coastlines

Until recently in our evolutionary history as a species, humans couldn’t extract resources faster than those resources were renewed. Even if we wanted to we couldn’t because Nature put a limit on the amount we could physically take. Then, sometime within the last few thousand years, we crossed a tipping point and now we are…

Tony Butt
12 Minuten Lesezeit
River Surfing on the Saint Lawrence

By Juilen Fillion, photos by Vincent Bergeron Montreal might be known for its welcoming French Canadian community, the beautiful women and the famous Poutine—French fries topped with a light brown gravy-like sauce and cheese curds—but it’s also known for a standing river wave called Habitat 67. This endless wave located on the center shore of Montreal…

Juilen Fillion
4 Minuten Lesezeit
National Geographic Announces 2015 Adventurers of the Year

Yesterday, National Geographic pulled the curtain back on the winners of their 10th annual Adventurers of the Year, “each selected for his or her remarkable achievement in exploration, adventure sports, conservation, and humanitarianism.” Four of the winners are from the Patagonia family and we couldn't be happier for them. Tommy Caldwell for completing the Fitz…

2 Minuten Lesezeit
The Voyage(s) of the Cormorant, Part 3

“Check out that fin,” my buddy, Dillon Joyce, said. And there it was, 50 feet off the stern, an unmistakable dorsal, weaving in a slow “S” through the water. Wasn’t the sharp triangle-shape of a whitey, and as we were five- or six-miles out from Santa Cruz Island on our long sail back to the…

Christian Beamish
10 Minuten Lesezeit
The Voyage(s) of the Cormorant, Part 2

When the pintle snapped I felt a moment’s disbelief and then something like panic spark down in my belly. But I tamped that feeling with a long drink of water and a pep talk, noting to myself that I was not injured, that I had plenty of food and water, and that the conditions were…

Christian Beamish
6 Minuten Lesezeit
The Voyage(s) of the Cormorant, Part 1

If I’ve learned anything in these recent years of open boat adventuring aboard my 18-footer, Cormorant, it’s that everything is fine until it isn’t. But also, as Yvon says, “The real adventure starts when something goes wrong…” Late July, 2014—Shoving off from Gaviota for the 27-mile crossing to San Miguel Island came with a new…

Christian Beamish
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Stepping from Sand to Pavement – San Sebastián Surfilm Festibal 2014

Travel in all its various guises is at the heart of surfing, so it was appropriate that there was a little of it involved for most of the people—Patagonia or otherwise—at this year’s Surfilm Festibal in San Sebastián, Spain. They say that change is good and that exploring new places nourishes the soul, but Nora,…

Tom Doidge-Harrison
6 Minuten Lesezeit
My Best Surf Session with the High Fives Foundation

Head-high peaks stacked in perfect rows, warm clear water, and glassy surface conditions were not the reasons for the best surf session of my life. Sometimes it’s about more than that. If you were asked to describe your most memorable surf session, what would you say? Would you scroll through your memories of surf trips…

Laurel Winterbourne
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Dispatch from the Cabrinha Quest

By Gavin McClurg, photos by Jody MacDonald Sailing around the world isn’t new. Historians recently learned that Chinese merchant ships in the latter 15th century, which were grander, faster, and better equipped than Spanish and Portuguese fleets (Magellan, Columbus, Gama, etc.), used trading routes that vary today only because of the Suez and Panama Canals.…

Gavin McClurg
10 Minuten Lesezeit
Surfing in the UK and Ireland with Patrick Wilson: Photos

By Patch Wilson Growing up in Cornwall, in the UK, it’s easy to feel blessed when you’re young. I thought we had the best waves ever, and in some ways it’s true. When you’re a kid, the waves at home are all you really need. But quickly the realization sets in – as you get…

Patrick “Patch” Wilson
4 Minuten Lesezeit
Patrick Burnett and Jason Hayes on Making Wooden Big-Wave Boards

By Nowadays there are a lot of people making wooden surfboards. Environmentally it makes a great deal of sense. Wood is a natural, non-toxic material that is infinitely less harmful to work with than polyester, epoxy, polyethylene or polystyrene, and that can be assimilated back into the environment once the life of the board has…

Tony Butt
11 Minuten Lesezeit
Weeknights on the Bowery: A Fundraising Event

October 15 was an idyllic autumn evening in the Northeast, cool and clear at the intersection of Bowery and Bleecker. As the sun set, amps and guitars and drum kits and crates of audio gear rolled through the front doors of the old CBGB gallery, awakening the musical spirits still lingering in the iconic venue.…

Jeff DiNunzio
5 Minuten Lesezeit
Dan Malloy’s Slow Is Fast – The Book and DVD

Thumbing through my recently purchased copy of Dan Malloy’s Slow Is Fast paperback, I felt the same elation I had as a teenager buying new vinyl. Listening to Yes’s double album, Tales From Topographic Oceans, I would carefully examine Roger Dean’s ethereal cover art as Jon Anderson and Steve Howe’s highly energized rock transported this…

Craig Holloway
6 Minuten Lesezeit
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