Histoires Surf

Ted Grambeau
Pointless Beauty: The Art of Bodysurfing
Pointless Beauty: The Art of Bodysurfing
Pointless Beauty: The Art of Bodysurfing
Rory Parker

Where worthless and priceless collide.

4 min de lecture
Emergent Seas
Emergent Seas
Emergent Seas
Lauren L. Hill

Exploring motherhood and meaningful play.

10 min de lecture
Silence, Water, Hope
Silence, Water, Hope
Silence, Water, Hope
Andrew O’Reilly

Protecting the ocean is what friends are for.

5 min de lecture
The Real Hidden Gems of the West Coast
The Real Hidden Gems of the West Coast
The Real Hidden Gems of the West Coast
Miles Masterson

Big Mineral Mining is tearing up the coastline and restricting access to some of South Africa’s most pristine beaches and waves—and it’s getting way out of hand.

7 min de lecture
The Big-Wave Safety Paradox
The Big-Wave Safety Paradox
The Big-Wave Safety Paradox
Greg Long

Are the recent advancements in safety equipment and protocols making big-wave lineups more dangerous?

9 min de lecture
Anchoring for Change
Anchoring for Change
Anchoring for Change
Morgan Williamson

How Captain Liz Clark’s Tahitian residency opened a new chapter in her activist work.

5 min de lecture
The Joy of Junky Windslop
The Joy of Junky Windslop
The Joy of Junky Windslop

Tapping into the beginner’s mind while teaching his daughter to surf.

8 min de lecture
Biirrinba is Life
Biirrinba is Life
Biirrinba is Life
Alistair Klinkenberg

Childhood friends, Hayley Talbot and Dan Ross, are determined to save a mighty river.

6 min de lecture
Carving Space for More Black Surfers
Carving Space for More Black Surfers
Carving Space for More Black Surfers

Building positivity, inspiration and purpose out of a racist encounter in Los Angeles.

5 min de lecture
A New Surf Culture
A New Surf Culture
A New Surf Culture
Stephanie Vermillion

This Great Lakes surfer never felt represented in the surf scene, so she created a new surf culture of her own.

6 min de lecture
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Gabriela Aoun

Seasoned waterman, master woodworker and Patagonia Surf Ambassador Ben Wilkinson channels his skills toward a new environmental calling.

5 min de lecture
On Letting Go
On Letting Go
On Letting Go
Morgan Williamson

Ramón Navarro and Kohl Christensen bring Léa Brassy into the jaws of a Chilean monster.

4 min de lecture
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
Morgan Williamson

How a nonprofit that takes San Francisco kids surfing expanded its work in 2020.

6 min de lecture
Connected by Water
Connected by Water
Connected by Water

La mort de Sion Milosky à Mavericks en 2011 a laissé la communauté du surf de grosses vagues endeuillée, pleurant une fois de plus un surfeur talentueux. C'était aussi un signal d'alarme.

Découvrir
7:53
The Return of a Surf Classic
The Return of a Surf Classic
The Return of a Surf Classic
Kim McCoy & Willard Newell Bascom

Coauthor Kim McCoy recounts discovering the mystery of what lies beneath the waves, where ocean and land meet and compete.

5 min de lecture
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
Gabriela Aoun

A look into surfing’s impact vests and the people they’ve brought back home.

8 min de lecture
The Eddie Must Go (On)
The Eddie Must Go (On)
The Eddie Must Go (On)
Morgan Williamson

Clyde Aikau on why the most culturally significant big-wave event in surfing will always matter.

7 min de lecture
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Morgan Williamson

Kohl Christensen discusses how BWRAG came to be and his recent near-death experience courtesy of Pipeline's reef.

7 min de lecture
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
Morgan Williamson

Dave Rastovich and Greg Long log in and discuss the current state of surfing, it’s cultural and ecological impacts, and where it’s headed.

19 min de lecture
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing

Dave Rastovich and Greg Long log in and discuss the current state of surfing, it’s cultural and ecological impacts, and where it’s headed.

19 min de lecture
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Matt Skenazy

Meet Annie Reickert, the 18-year-old Maui charger Paige Alms is mentoring in the Jaws lineup and beyond.

4 min de lecture
Net Positive
Net Positive
Net Positive
Adam Skolnick

How discarded plastic fishing nets found their way into our hat brims.

3 min de lecture
How to Interview Your Dad
How to Interview Your Dad
How to Interview Your Dad
Kyle Thiermann

And why you should do it now.

7 min de lecture
The Unridden
The Unridden
The Unridden
Kosuke Fujikura

If you don’t get what you came for, be sure to enjoy the ride.

4 min de lecture
Lessons from Jeju
Lessons from Jeju
Lessons from Jeju

Suivez le parcours de Kimi Werner dans Lessons from Jeju, où elle découvre la maternité, la culture, la plongée et la pêche avec les mères plongeuses de Corée du Sud, les haenyeo.

Découvrir
13:31
Honorary Haenyeo
Honorary Haenyeo
Honorary Haenyeo
Archana Ram

Kimi Werner takes a journey to Jeju Island for lessons in motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s “women of the sea” aka the haenyeo.

8 min de lecture
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea
Liz Clark

Captain Liz Clark’s been self-isolating aboard her sailboat Swell since 2005; here she provides her experiences and insight for navigating isolation during a pandemic.

5 min de lecture
Finding My Voice
Finding My Voice
Finding My Voice
Janna Irons

How Belinda Baggs went from an ‘armchair’ activist to the front lines.

3 min de lecture
Not Your Average Surf Comp
Not Your Average Surf Comp
Not Your Average Surf Comp
Gabriela Aoun

Welcome to Ian Walsh’s Menehune Mayhem.

3 min de lecture
The Process and the Reward
The Process and the Reward
The Process and the Reward
Pete Geall

Greg Long, Al Mackinnon and Pete Geall’s dusty search for uncrowded perfection at Location Redacted.

6 min de lecture
Fire Up the Test Tank
Fire Up the Test Tank
Fire Up the Test Tank
Malcolm Johnson

There’s nothing more important than having waves a few minutes away.

3 min de lecture
Voices for the Ocean
Voices for the Ocean
Voices for the Ocean

Nous protégeons ce que nous aimons.

Découvrir
5:31
The Fight For The Bight
The Fight For The Bight
The Fight For The Bight
Sean Doherty

While Australia burns, its government is greenlighting oil drilling in the unspoiled Great Australian Bight. But surfers and coastal communities are saying no—and uniting to keep Big Oil out.

10 min de lecture
Estado Salmonero
Estado Salmonero
Estado Salmonero

Dans un pays connu pour son exploitation massive des ressources, l'élevage du saumon est désormais plus important que toutes les industries du Chili, à l'exception de l'extraction du cuivre.

Découvrir
23:16
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard
Sean Doherty

At Fletcher Chouinard Designs, the focus is on durable, high-performing equipment that lets you have fun no matter what the ocean is doing. There are never enough hours in a day for Fletcher Chouinard. As a surfer, shaper, kiteboarder and new father, he was really doing the dance. Then along came foilboarding, which has made…

5 min de lecture
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters
Kimi Werner

The Best Times Are About Friends, Not Perfection It had been four years since Liz Clark, Léa Brassy and I first spent time together, on a sailing trip through the Tuamotus. We knew we’d found something special from the moment we met, and we’ve stayed in touch ever since. We’re all very individual women and…

4 min de lecture
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